Craft London is the best restaurant in North Greenwich and, arguably, serving more interesting food than anywhere else on the east side of the capital.

It’s well priced in any case and, for thrifty Canary Wharf workers, there’s even better news.

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Chef Stevie Parle has started a regular Test Kitchen Tuesday offer.

For £28 you get to sit in the opulence of Tom Dixon’s gold and blue interior and sample a range of dishes under consideration for regular spots on the menu.

There’s no choice, but the opportunity to try (on the evening I attended) seven dishes of this calibre for so little cash mutes the indignity of pulling on one’s guinea pig suit.

So my friend and I tog up, he as a piebald rodent named Colin, me as a glossy black fellow named Eric.

After convincing the receptionist we’re not filming a fresh series of Trigger Happy TV, we gain access and take a table overlooking the sea of development that is the Greenwich Peninsula.

Like the cut and thrusting of Knight Dragons tower-filled plans for the area, Parle’s cooking is ambitious.

He toys with us – a mouthful of juicy duck and walnut is followed by a salad of carrot and garlic smoked nearby; brightly coloured enough for use as a child’s mobile and sufficiently crunchy to take a couple of millimetres off our lengthening incisors.

An indifferent broth of squid and halibut is eclipsed in a heartbeat as sea bream and, then, pork wade in to leave our eyes bright and our cheeks, under the fur, flushed with pleasure.

Topping everything off is the best of the bunch, a chocolate and onion powder dessert that deserves a prime place on the menu. A fitting end to a clean, fresh meal.

To sum up, the menu is superb value, although you need to be prepared for the kitchen to take a while and the lack of choice won’t be to everybody’s taste.

Still, diners are encouraged to scribble feedback for the staff, so if you don’t like my criticism or what you’re getting, why not offer your views at Craft?

Craft London, One Green Place, London, SE10 0PE, 020 8465 5910

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