Columbia Restaurant in Rotherhithe aims to lure Canary Wharf workers across the water with a Venetian-inspired pop-up this summer.
We made the five-minute, free ferry journey across to the DoubleTree By Hilton London Docklands Riverside hotel, to sample its Terrazza On The Thames menu, created with Italian wine specialist Bolla.
The drinks selection is minimal – there are three bubblies, two wines and six cocktails.
We choose the Bollisimo (£9.50) and Campanile (£11.50) as our server made the syrups (thyme and fig respectively) himself.
His pride is evident as is the generosity of the serving, almost overwhelming all the other flavours.
We soak up the alcohol with bruschetta three ways (£7) and disappointingly plain arancini (£6.50).
The pizzette (£7) arrive from indoors, rather than from the outdoor pizza oven advertised and taste rather cheap.
In contrast the mini ice cream cones (£5) are a delight, with delicate delicious flavours of pistachio, vanilla, carmelita and panna cotta.
Eating without spillage on the low sofa and table is almost impossible but this is partly due to the distracting power of a stunning sunset over Canary Wharf.
The view alone is worth the journey and the gentle fizz of the Bolla certainly added to our enjoyment.
Sadly the rest of the menu falls a little flat.
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