Remember Camino? Good, wasn’t it? Until it packed its bags and left Canary Wharf.

Fair enough. Neighbouring Canary Riverside remains at foundation level. The restaurant’s business case was predicated on the construction of those towers.

Then JP Morgan pulled out. You can’t sell high-quality sherry to a concrete wasteland.

Back then the Thames Path was closed too. Feet failed to fall.

Unlike the likely fate of the steel poking out of Canary Riverside’s concrete, Richard Bigg's micro chain hasn’t been gathering rust, though.

Successes in Monument and Blackfriars have paved the way for another opening within comparable striking distance of Canary Wharf.

Tucked away behind Tate Modern it, like Bigg’s operation these days is leaner, more efficient.

Rather than cluttered with Iberian ephemera, extravagant tiles do for the decor and provide a fitting backdrop to the venue’s sharp cuisine.

This is the place for razor-edged tapas and it’s only a short walk from Southwark tube.

So if you’re looking for somewhere pretty informal for a glass of wine and some beautifully shaved pig leg; what are you waiting for?

Camino, 5 Canvey Street, London, SE1 9AN, 020 3617 3169,