Rings and restaurants. Tested via a straw poll on Facebook, it turns out there’s only one association (no, I’m not engaged). Which begs the question, why select them as the surprise gift at the end of a tasting menu?
Plateau’s Blossom City six-courser does just that . My girlfriend and I both received lady’s gold rings from Cadenzza with coloured centres and Swarovski crystals surrounding the setting.
A bit of light-hearted fun at our friends’ expense proved amusing but also thought provoking.
Proposals can be stressful affairs. Recently a couple of my friends have agonised over their delicate execution.
The ifs, whens and wheres weigh heavily. So with rings presented it’s not too much of a stretch imagine scenes of dismay at the topic being raised half-cocked, dropped like a large stone in a pond.
What damage might be done to couples forced to discuss the issue or, worse still, brush it under the carpet to fester? How would it fare as the cap to a first date?
Why not play safe with benign earrings and cufflinks instead? Also, with no masculine alternative offered, the bonus has limited interest for the kind of a man who doesn’t want to flash a bit of feminine bling about Canada Square (not many, granted).
Moving on from the sparkly own goal, the menu itself has some other bright attractions. It’s good value, especially at £85 with well-matched wines.
And, if you’re a meat-eater, you’re in for a treat.
Excellent seared scallops, an admittedly ugly duck and foie gras terrine and rose veal are all decent bites cooked with skill and competent bombast.
Sadly, it’s not the same story if you’re a veggie. Perhaps all of the flavour that was going to go into the garden salad got used up in other dishes.
Its blandness and similarity to the main of spring vegetable tart are disappointments, relieved only by the creamy majesty of a superb Jersey Royal risotto interlude.
Such is its warming embrace it may be wise for the kitchen to keep some back just in case of relationship disaster on presentation of the rings.
There’s not much in this world that wouldn’t be salved by those comforting cubes. The menu is available until Thursday, June 30.
Plateau, 4th Floor, Canada Square, London E14 5ER, 020 7715 7100
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