Plateau should be one of the most exciting restaurants in Canary Wharf.

It literally sits above the other fine dining venues on the estate, at the top of Canada Place and with views over the busy square below.

It is part of the D And D portfolio, which includes the likes of Le Pont De La Tour in Shad Thames and michelin-starred Angler in South Place Hotel.

And it now has a head chef trained by Pierre Koffman.

Fellow Frenchman Jeremy Trehout has redesigned the menu aiming for a “wow factor”.

And it is pleasing to the eye with vibrant colours, the enduringly popular edible flower garnishes and careful plating.

But when it comes to the flavours Jeremy is holding back.

My king prawn bisque is lovely and creamy and tastes of prawns. Only prawns.

The lamb rump is perfectly cooked but even when I load my fork with the accompanying smoked aubergine, black garlic and squid ink yoghurt and pea puree it lacks a knockout punch.

It takes a better palate then mine to identify the Kaluha in my dessert, which on the page sounds delightfully light with espresso foam and a coffee biscuit.

In reality it is so packed with rich chocolate I start to question if they brought me the correct dish.

The restaurant was reassuringly busy on the Tuesday evening I went, with most visitors looking as if they had come straight from the office.

And for corporate dining it’s classic dishes and subtle flavours offer a pleasurable experience without shocks.

But if Plateau wants to remain ahead of the growing restaurant pack in the Canary Wharf area they need to find that elusive missing ingredient to turn a pleasant experience into an unmissable one.

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