"I’ll be honest, I’m scared of heights, so I avoid looking at the view,” intones our lovely waiter when asked what working on the 33rd floor of The Shard is like.

That this is the main memory I take from my visit to Hutong says a lot. It’s not that it’s completely unmemorable – after all, it’s beautifully decked out and its food prompts the appreciative noises you’d expect from happy diners.

The view from Hutong

But I come away uninspired. My expectations were high (naturally), based on the assumption the dishes should match the astonishing view, but sadly they don’t.

Perhaps it’s unfair to expect plates of food to compete with years of London architecture.

And don't get me wrong, the food is good; especially the dumplings, which delivered just the right balance of squishy goodness and crunch.

Scallop prawn and kai lan dumplings

Guaiwei prawn and cuttlefish (the high-flyer) have plenty of flavour and give me something to get my teeth into.

So I’d still recommend a visit, maybe for the £35pp set lunch menu which delivers a decent amount of good food to a minimum of two people, but don’t expect to soar above the clouds on the euphoria of the taste.