A journey to the end of the strip of historic warehouses that line West India Quay demands something special.

In a bid to fend off the threats of an increasingly vibrant foodie scene on the estate and the looming impact of Crossrail, Rum And Sugar has appointed chef Joe Howley to tempt Wharfers over the water.

His menu looks simple, seemingly designed to give hungry office workers what they want – warmth and quantity.

But there’s more depth here than the promise of cheese burger and 6oz steak would suggest.

Spiced potted pork with sour pear, pork crumb and toast (£5) is a surprisingly subtle affair, balancing a range of textures and flavours well.

While eating I find it impossible to banish the idea I'm licking a salty apple crumble.

Better still is stuffed chicken supreme with confit potato and purple sprouting broccoli (£12).

Dining here is a bit like being told by a friend they've an interest in sculpture and discovering, on your first visit to their home, they’ve accurately carved wooden replicas of every famous statue in the National Gallery.

Howley's dishes are, on the whole, well balanced and interesting enough to divert attention from the usual suspects on the estate.

Alongside the tasty, keenly priced food, this self professed rum specialist bar is managing some decent drinks.

Rum And Sugar's Rum And Rouge cocktail was a fresh delight

Rum And Rouge (£9) is a fresh blast of Clement Select with strawberries, raspberries and lime juice; a more complex beverage than expected from a venue that revels in its party atmosphere.

It’s not perfect, of course. A deconstructed dessert featuring chocolate and orange is a bit of a mess and would probably have been more enjoyable in finished form.

But Rum And sugar is trying hard to offer an attractive option for lunch and it’s not doing badly.

That's more than some of the venues on the Quay are managing.

Rum And Sugar, West India Quay, London, E14 4AL, 020 7538 2702, rumandsugar.co.uk.