Billed as a London Club without the snobbery, this bright-open plan restaurant is actually more like a high-end canteen. But with much better food.

There are no secret passageways or bookcase-lined walls, instead the sizeable gold and green interior of Coppa Club has a relaxed, sit anywhere vibe with plenty of scope for people watching.

On Friday night it was buzzing with tourists enjoying views of Tower Bridge and The Shard, boisterous young office workers drinking on the terrace and families grabbing dinner.

Coppa Club: Bramble mint julep

The menu is varied, fun and a feast for the eyes served on blue Spanish crockery. The crispy fried truffled gnocchi (£2.95) was visually unassuming but memorably delicious and the sticky chorizo sausages like indulgent party treats.

They are not breaking any boundaries but what they do, they do well and main course trout on the plancha (£12.95) was bursting with freshness thanks to the lemony fregola, shaved fennel and orange and chive dressing.

Coppa Club: Trout on the plancha

The only fly in my enjoyment was the overly intrusive service. Instead of shuffling butlers this London club had a charming but brisk young waitresses who’s continual checking up made us feel in turn spoilt, amused and finally slightly harried.

I could understand this in a real canteen, or if there were waiting punters but it was a leisurely and sunny end to my working week and I just wanted to be left alone to enjoy my dessert. I chose the spoon-lickingly good flourless chocolate and almond cake (£5.45) whose richness was tempered by orangey creme fraiche.

Coppa Club: Sticky toffee pudding

However we struggled with the ridiculously sweet sticky toffee pudding which also had honeycomb and toffee sauce smothering it. It was the only dish we didn’t scrape clean.

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