The estate’s security team may well come and drag me away (we’re not down with commotion in this part of the world).

But someone needs to do some serious shouting about the cumbersomely-titled Clublounge39 at Canary Wharf’s tech accelerator space, Level39.

Read more: Why you need to avoid the fish pie at Galvin Hop

Formerly off limits, the latest link in the evolution of this glass panel-laden space sees it fling wide its doors for reservations at lunchtime and for drinks until 11pm on Thursdays.

The sense, as you make your way through its unassuming black door to the comfort of the Eames-style chairs and businesslike ceiling, is of a breathtaking baby phoenix still kicking off the remnants of its glistening shell.

Not yet the finished article (that may come in time) it nevertheless rises above everything else on the estate both in position and content.

Despite its impressive collection of protrusions, the Wharf has nowhere serious to eat at height. Or had nowhere.

Cesar Pelli’s floor-to-ceiling windows make Clublounge39. They dump insistent buckets of light and City skyline on the visitor.

Forget central London – here you get it all laid out in front of you. A visual affirmation that Canary Wharf is the power, lording it over the trivial, distant termite mounds of Shard, Gherkin and Cheesegrater.

Earthy pasta at Clublounge39

But position is not enough on its own and chef Lukasz Roszkowki and manager Daniele Quattromini deliver with service and food.

Starters and mains are hearty beneath artful presentation done in a style that channels the cutting edge of the techie artworks littering Level39.

The cooking is assured with textures left toothsome and flavours bold. A fillet of beef, for example, is left to battle an almost equal chunk of ox cheek, creating superb meaty carnage.

Beef and cheek at Clublounge39

Special mention goes to a dessert – pineapple with passion fruit sorbet and pistachio biscotti.

The sweet log of fruit, tricked up outrageously with potent spices, was quite the most pleasant dish I’ve eaten in 2016.

Its rich, candied depths were worth the visit alone. High. Class.

Pineapple, just pineapple (and stuff) at Clublounge39

Clublounge39 may well be evolving but you’d be crazy not to put it on your lunch list right now while two courses are £33 and three are £39.

Open 12-3pm for lunch, Monday-Friday. Bookings can be made by calling 020 3668 3700 of via

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