Bottomless brunches are de rigueur these day and so, naturally, new hot spot Bokan has jumped on board.

The Isle Of Dogs restaurant in Novotel is surrounded by building works rather than bars and offices not art galleries.

But it manages to draw a trendy crowd of mainly 20 and 30-somethings on Saturday afternoon, presumably lured by the fantastic views and New York loft vibe.

The sweeping curves of the Thames below are in themselves enough to revive a week-wearied soul but many will come for the two hours of unlimited Prosecco.

But take that away and exactly what are you left with for your money?

For £49 per person you get three course of food and the choices are definitely more of the lunch than breakfast persuasion.

Despite informing them beforehand we were carb-free the waitress brings a large loaf of bread over so us to “whet our appetites”.

Usually a sign to expect diminutive portions.

My seabream and smoked salmon tartare starter does little to dispel this notion but while small is perfectly complemented with yuzu, coconut milk and mango.

As the fresh flavours skipped across my tongue I watched the waves dance their own jig below and thought about how well some bubbles would complement the moment. Ah well.

My original order of duck breast was rebuffed by the kitchen as they have run out, so I settle on beef skirt with fried eggs and vegetables instead of roast potatoes.

It was pink perfection on a plate and the accompanying greens had a nice buttery bite but I’m sure a nice red would sit better besides this.

The same is true of the cheese platter we finished with, which was also fairly restrained in size and disappeared rapidly.

As a stand alone menu, the food was delightful, fresh and light and I’m not convinced I would have enjoyed it more paired with Prosecco.

It doesn’t need the bubbles to elevate it and in some instance they would by a dampener. But maybe that is their ploy to ensure you do not guzzle too much.

Had we been drinking, I feel sure we would have managed to consume a fair few glasses but I would, and did, leave craving a large glass of Pinot Noir.

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