Food review: Cinnamon Kitchen, The City

By Jon Massey on June 16, 2014 3:00 PM |

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FOOD

Cinnamon Kitchen
The City
★★★★✩

This place, nestled away towards the back of one of those odd covered galleria spaces architects thought would be essential in the early noughties, looks and feels like a typical City money pump.

Its studied slickness and modern decor itch rip off.

The kind of place that winds up stuffed with suits, perspiring into their linings.

We sit at a table where I can happily gaze at them and myself in a mirror. It's a narcissist's dream.

Oddly though, while it is pricey, it's not extortionate.

And that's down to the quality and punchiness of the product.

Cracking the whip to my taste buds first was a lip-tingling lobster soup that had a bit of Devon crab on a chilli crisp on the side.

It's £12.50, but comes with Vivek Singh's expert spice blending skills at its heart.

He's not a chef who's afraid of a bit of push and shove in the mouth.

And while my to tongue's slugging it out with the broth, it's the textures of the crustacea that work magic. Over and above expectation.

My main's also good, although at £32 I would expect the red deer at the hart of the curry to have been illegally abducted from the Richmond Park herd.

It's the kind of premium purveyors of illicit powders charge their clients for delivering to risky locations. That said, it was buttery in the mouth.

Enough to make me all but forget the unnecessary sides.

Worth risking a prison sentence for?

Maybe not. But secreted at the shady back of a Galleria.

Who's going to know? A cheeky plate should be alright.

And the spice will pep you up nicely.

Cinnamon Kitchen, 9 Devonshire Square, London, EC2M 4YL, 020 7626 5000, cinnamon-kitchen.com.