Food review: Valentine's Day Menu at The Gun, Docklands

By Beth Allcock on February 10, 2014 9:35 AM |

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FOOD

Valentines Day Menu 2014 The Gun, Coldharbour, Docklands
★★★★★

Valentine's Day. All so often a time for cliches, corny statements and chocolate.

I've not been struck by Cupid's arrow this particular February - opting to share The Gun's extravagant five-course menu with a friend instead.

But I'm happy to report that this V-Day combo can easily match the strength of a beating heart.

While I'm on the point of extrovert displays of sickly-sweet affection, don't expect tables adorned with confetti hearts.

This chic Docklands gastro-pub is all about elegance and tradition, the perfect setting to spend a sophisticated February 14.

The only neon red you'll see here is that of the keta caviar surrounding the plate of salmon.

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And whether you're the lucky couple choosing to spend the evening in the pub's exclusive River Room (£455 for the pair) or downstairs in the rustic, homely restaurant surroundings, you're in for a night to remember.

The show-stoppingly elegant plates of food began with roast salsify veloute, topped with shavings of carbonated apple surrounding an island of a cinnamon donut.

Opposites attract, they say. And the luxurious creaminess of the soup balanced perfectly with the delicate sugary shards of fruit.

But the pocket-sized treat usually reserved for dessert was the star, offering a gentle warming hit of spice and sweet homeliness.

The perfect pairings continued with the sensibly-sized second and third dishes, as candied pear successfully enhanced a creamy cannelloni and fresh, earthy broccoli puree, while blowtorched salmon created a crispiness that partnered well with hearty rainbow beets.

Whether you're a veggie or meat-eater, the final savoury offering of venison or lentil and swede Wellington, with heritage veg and a cylinder of pressed spuds offers comfort and glowing warmth.

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Then it's time to do battle with the Other Half over the light but oh-so-luxurious chocolate fudge cake, the delicate flavours and creaminess of a passion fruit creme brulee and a dark, inviting coffee mousse.

The desserts were all sprinkled with dehydrated raspberries, (who knew the delicate dots could pack in so much flavour?) meringue and placed atop a rustic board, home-made plinths and a straw nest.

Beauty may well be in the eye of the beholder, but the presentation of the quintet of dishes - finished with chunks of dark chocolate and financier petit fours - rocketed well off the handsome scale. And how successful was the underpinning trait of pairing fruit with veg, sweet with savoury in each dish? A match made in heaven.

The Gun's Valentine's Day menu costs £50 per person for five courses including coffee/tea and petit fours.

The Gun, Coldharbour, Docklands, London, E14 9NS, 020 7515 5222.

Go to thegundocklands.com

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