Bar Spy: One Leicester Street
One Leicester Street
IN A NUTSHELL
Schlep up the backstairs to this haven of calm and alchemy that's become the den of the Talented Mr Fox.
Up a nondescript flight of stairs this secluded bar round the back of the hotel and restaurant is a haven of refined flavours.
Now permanently under the auspices of the Talented Mr Fox (Matt Wiley when he's not tearing black refuse sacks to pieces with his teeth), the whole place feels like a chemistry lab built by a mad scientist and a small boy.
It might not be as buzzy as all that but sitting at the bar is deliciously satisfying.
Invented the night I attended, try a Konik's Tail Martini with a spritz of lemon and a pipette of Wiley's Death Valley Tincture and Vermouth.
It's so dry your tongue will shrivel up in your mouth; then, oddly, you'll want some more.
One Leicester Street, 1 Leicester Street, London, WC2H 7BL, 020 3301 8020 oneleicesterstreet.com.