Travel Special: New Zealand

The man in question wanted to show us two huge seals he had spotted, soaking up the last of the evening sun on the sand. There is little room for the English reserve. Whether in the wilderness or the centre of a city, everyone wants to talk to you.

Regardless of timescale or budget, the perfect way to see New Zealand is under your own steam. Travel by camper van and as long as you can find somewhere to park it for the night, you have total freedom.

New Zealand is there to be soaked up, and even if you do stray off route, an unplanned detour can reveal tranquil bays of spearmint blue-green water and vertiginous velvety hillsides the colour of gem lettuces. You'll want to get lost again.

There are plenty of chances to bypass pricey animal-spotting tours when you have your own wheels. New Zealand has an abundance of natural beauty to be ogled and if you know where to look, a short stroll can reveal fabulous marine wildlife.

The Kaikoura Peninsula, between Blenheim and Christchurch, is a top spot to get up close to seals and, if you are lucky, you could catch a glimpse of the very rare yellow-eyed penguin at Roaring Bay, Te Anau.

The country boasts some of the world's top diving sites and if you can get over the chilly ocean, they are begging to be explored. Take a trip from Tutukaka, 100 miles north of Auckland, to explore what lies beneath the Poor Knight's Islands.

If you are more at home exploring a tropical reef, where the mere brush of a fin threatens to destroy thousands of years of delicate ecosystem, you are in for a treat. At this marine reserve, you are positively encouraged to burrow in the kelp. There are also fewer things that can kill you.

Non-divers can see plenty with just a snorkel and may chance upon scorpion fish, moray eels and stingrays.

You can put your camper van on the ferry, so getting between the islands is not a problem. A short hop from South Island's Picton ferry terminal takes you deep into wine country. Time to exchange four wheels for two as hiring a bike is definitely the best way to experience the vineyards. Be warned: you can get arrested for being drunk in charge of a bicycle, so do not get too carried away.

With each helpful sommelier offering a bit of wine-making history, you can definitely chalk this activity up as an educational one, providing you can still write.

Marlborough is known for its delicious Sauvignon Blanc, but the region also produces Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer and the lesser-known Toru. I suggest you try them all.

If the cycling didn't clear the cobwebs then Queenstown, the adrenaline capital of the South Island, just might. If you must be a big show-off then A J Hackett, the bungee king, can offer you the world's highest rope swing at Shotover Canyon and the world's longest bungy drop, the 134-metre Nevis high wire.

Queenstown can claim some of the most breathtaking scenery in New Zealand. It is built around a cobalt blue lake and surrounded by chocolate-box snowy peaks. If you don't want to hurtle towards it on the end of an elastic band, how about shooting past it in a boat? Put you life in the hands of your driver as he navigates the terrifying Shotover Jet through the hairpin bends and slalom rocks of the canyon.

Later you can unwind with a massage followed by dinner at one of Queenstown's numerous fine restaurants and cafés. Plenty of the pubs have live music and excellent local beer. The ideal way to wind up the day.

Where to stay:
Auckland
Scenic Hotel: central and affordable.
Go to scenichotelgroup.co.nz.
Renwick
Watson's Way Backpackers: discounted bike hire and free tennis are part of the package. Staff also provide wine-tasting tips.
Dorm, campervan, tent.
Go to watsonswaybackpackers.co.nz.
Rotarua
Waikite Valley Thermal Pools:
overlooks the rugged landscape and steaming natural springs.
Tent, camper van.
Go to rotoruanz.com/experiences/
waikite-valley-thermal-pool.
Akaroa
Top 10: spectacular harbour views.
Studio, cabin, tent, camper van
Go to akaroa-holidaypark.co.nz.
Tutukaka coast
If you can do without your mod cons, try free camping.
Tent, camper van.
Go to new-zealand.tourism.net.nz

What to do: North Island
Scuba dive
Layer up and delve deep beneath the kelp at one of the world's top 10 dive sites.
Poor Knights from Tutukaka
Go to diving.co.nz.
Thermal Pools
Hold your nose and sink your toes into the beautiful but sulphurous hot springs beyond the tourist hub of Rotorua.
Waikite Valley
Go to rotoruanz.com.
Skydive
How about being one of the 30,000 who annually leap from a plane over the snow-capped mountains and sapphire-blue waters of New Zealand's largest lake.
Lake Taupo
Go to freefall.net.nz.
Beers and wines
Auckland bears the nickname City of Sails, and where better than harbour-side to get aquatinted with the country's fine selection of wines and beers.
Auckland
Go to aucklandnz.com.
Black Water Rafting
You could join a walking tour or alternatively take the river, viewing the stalactites, stalagmites and glow-worm-covered caverns by inner tube.
Waitomo Caves
Go to waitmo.com.

What to do: South Island
Wildlife spotting
Penguins, seals, flora and fauna. Even if you think you have those boxes ticked, a boat tour through the fiordland should not be missed.
Milford Sound
fiordland.org.nz
Shotover Jet
If you prefer to stay at sea level but still want something extreme, how about a terrifying boat trip through a picturesque canyon?
Queenstown
shotoverjet.com
Wine tasting
Hire a bike and peddle your way through some of the world's finest sauvignon blanc.
Blenheim, Marlborough
winetoursby
bike.co.nz
Glacier Walk
Strap on a pair of crampons and step out from lush rainforest onto the breathtaking alpine surface.
Fox Glacier
foxguides.co.nz
Bungee Jump
A J Hacket challenges you to hurl yourself from a cable car over New Zealand's highest drop.
Queenstown
ajhackett.com