Food Review: Roka

REVIEW

Quality is important in Canary Wharf, particularly when it comes to what ends up on your plate.

Plenty of Wharfers are happy to pay up for something sublime and with the number of excellent restaurants in the area growing there's plenty of choice these days.

That's good news for anyone looking to impress a client over a decent lunch and Roka, which opened two months ago, is well on the way to establishing itself as one of the areas top restaurants.

Rainer Becker's Japanese restaurant has long been a popular West End destination and the Canary Wharf offshoot seems to be heading the same way.

Visiting on a Friday lunchtime the bright, stripped wood restaurant was buzzing with Wharfers all enjoying themselves, always an encouraging sign. With three kitchens opening onto the room diners can enjoy the full theatre of their food being prepared before them.

Despite being busy staff never seemed rushed and the attention given to customers should be an example for every other restaurant in the area.

Foodwise there is plenty to enjoy here. Try the roka dishes for something different. Tuna tartar served with oscietra caviar and quail's yolk will stop you pining for prawn cocktail ever again. Simply a fabulous combination of flavours and textures.

The sashimi is sensational, particularly the yellowfin tuna (£5.30) and semi fatty tuna (£7.60). Fresh tasting and melting in the mouth, you'll not want those pre-packed travesties available in supermarkets again.

For something seasonal opt for the beef tataki (£12.90). Slivers of seared steak presented with autumn truffles, giving it an earthy, but not overpowering kick.

Those who like a little heat in their food should opt for the lamb cutlets with Korean spices (£18.90). Big chunky chops, tender and pink inside, with a dipping sauce that might blow the top of your head off with its chilli kick.

One quibble might be the portion size but then it's quality over quantity here. Everything is presented beautifully - as the saying goes, the first mouthful is in the eye.

A tasting menu, at £50 per person, is available but if you are relatively new to Japanese cuisine it might be best to take the advice of the knowledgeable and attentive waiting staff when deciding what to order.

Special mention for Raphael, the restaurant's knowledgeable sommelier. If you are stuck for what to match that Japanese food with he will come up trumps. Try the popular Roka junmai sake (£19.80 for a carafe) and you won't be disappointed.

General manager Paul Weldon has been pleased with business in Canary Wharf so far and he's confident Roka will build a loyal clientele.

He said: "There's so much more to Canary Wharf than the day-to-day business customers, it's a place full of character. We;ve been very encouraged by the business so far, especially at the weekend and we think we offer something here you can't get anywhere else in the Wharf."

Paul isn't wrong, particularly since the demise of Ubon. However, Roka isn't cheap, but when every penny translates itself to the quality of the food on your plate there can be no complaints.

It may not suit everyone's budget but with bonuses making a comeback and Canary Wharf's businesses seemingly on the up Roka should flourish here.

Roka will be opening for Sunday lunches from January 10.

HEALTHY OPTIONS:

Fond of fish? Then you'll be spoilt for choice at Roka.
Sashimi is a popular choice but if you want something sensational go for the robata grilled black cod. Marinated in yuzu miso this big, beautiful chunk of fish is quite simply divine.

Served in a giant leaf - it's not as weird as it sounds - this is a perfect example of how well things are done here.

Full of flavour and perfectly cooked. The only danger is you may want two or three more.

WHARF VERDICT:

Roka
4 Park Pavilion
40 Canada Square
London
E14 5FW

Tel: 020 7636 5228

rokarestaurant.com

Food: 5/5
Ambience: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Convenience: 5/5
Overall: 5/5

GETTING THERE:

Located in Canada Square Pavilion, to find Roka just head to Canada Square, take the lift next to the door to the park and there you are.

WHAT THEY SAY:

"I went to this restaurant for lunch. There was a really nice atmosphere and the decor and fittings were nicely authentic. The food was presented beautifully and the maki shushi rolls were amazing. I would definitely recommend a visit."
london-eating.co.uk

"Roka is obviously a dependable brand, with an appealing menu professionally delivered - and given the amount of fuss involved, it only feels a little overpriced."
thisislondon.co.uk

"This branch won't tempt me away from the original, which feels more neighborhood, less corporate, but for celebratory meals in Canary Wharf, it's tops."
Bloomberg.com

ALTERNATIVELY:

Canteen
Park Pavilion, 40 Canada Square
Traditional British food served up in generous portions in informal surroundings. A must for those nostalgic for dishes like bubble and squeak.
canteen.co.uk

Wahaca
Park Pavilion, 40 Canada Square
Mexican street food dished up in one of Canary Wharf's most vibrant new restaurants. Cheap and very cheerful and excellent value for money.
wahaca.co.uk

The Parlour
Park Pavilion, 40 Canada Square
Popular bar-restaurant with an extensive wine list and a good selection of traditional pub grub. Modern British cuisine served with style.
theparlourbar.co.uk