Food Review: Battery

REVIEW
Battery is the Inc Group's latest assault on the tastebuds of Wharfers.

Having dipped its toe in the water with The Attic bar at Pan Peninsula on South Quay, the firm has created a beach head for itself by taking on the old Ubon site at Westferry Circus.

And with Tompkins, its new restaurant at Pan Peninsula, set to open in the near future, could the Wharf be looking at a full scale Inc invasion?

With Ubon blaming disappointing dinner trade, will Battery be able to take on the Wharf's big hitters and win?

That of course remains to be seen, but The Wharf was invited down last week to road-test the new venue and its menu.

The first thing that strikes you when walking into Battery is the view. It is, quite simply fantastic. The Thames, the City, it's all there and because of the floor-to-ceiling windows, it feels like you're eating in the middle of it.

Aside from that, the colours are muted and calming, although the predominant green will not be to all tastes.

Vibrant, multi-coloured globes provide a bit of interest, but the interior is really only a sympathetic frame for the exterior and that's not a problem at all.

The menu is pretty extensive with a healthy smattering of variety, going beyond the standard staples of oysters, scallops and steak with dishes such as monkfish with "Moroccan flavours" and squab pigeon with chicory and citrus fruit.

It's pricey too - starters range from £8.50-£150 (for Beluga Caviar) and mains will set you back between £24 and £34 if you go a la carte.

Most I suspect will opt for the £32 three-course lunch menu, which looks to offer the best value.

Before we talk about the food, it's time for a moan. I appreciate choice is all important in the modern world - schools, hospitals, flavours of coffee - it's become fashionable to apply this buzzword to all of them so we get Exactly What We Want. But when it comes to restaurants, I find myself turned off by the concept of side dishes.

I don't want to construct my own meal - I want the chef to pick out the flavours for me and for them to arrive together as a single dish. I also don't want to guess whether they are necessary or not.

Battery is an offender in this respect. You will need a side dish as the size and content of the mains demand it. I had the steak, which was beautifully cooked and well matched with foie gras.

But, delicious and sizeable though the pile of rare sirloin was, it cried out for the side order of fat chips I asked for, if only for deviation in texture. So my objection to the food is simply to structure rather than the quality of the dishes.

My colleague opted for the sea bass (well presented, if a little on the small side) and the corn-fed duck with butternut squash (nice and pink, if a little unmemorable).

The wine list features a solid, traditional selection of French offerings and should provide most diners with a refreshing tipple.

Two of us started with the scallops, which were tasty and good fun, featuring a riot of ingredients strewn about the plate. My colleague went for the oysters - meaty and pleasant.

Perhaps the stars of the show, however, were the final courses - British and French cheeses and a simply stunning coconut pannacotta.

Both proved excellent ways of rounding off a meal. The service was superb throughout.

Everything was taken care of with a minimum of fuss and a high degree of professionalism.

Go for the view, stay for the subtle and delicate flavours.

HEALTHY OPTIONS

If you're after that all-important health kick, rather than something dripping in butter, Battery may not be the ideal place for you.

As with all fine dining, flavour is more important than calorie content and even the lightest-looking dish - potato gnocchi with black truffles - comes with "creamy wild mushrooms".

To start, the pumpkin tortellini is probably your best bet as the beetroot salad features goats curd.

To be honest, you'll probably succumb to temptation and have the chocolate fondant in the end.

WHARF VERDICT
Battery
34 Westferry Circus, Canary Wharf, London,
E14 8RR,
020 8305 3089
battery.uk.com

RATINGS
Food: 3/5
Ambience: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Conveniece: 4/5
Overall: 4/5

GETTING THERE

Stroll up through Canary Wharf to Westferry Circus. Head round the front of the Four Seasons Hotel and access to Battery is via a signposted metal gate.

WHAT THEY SAY:

The Wharf is the first publication to review Battery. Tell us what you think below.

ALTERNATIVELY:

Plateau
Canada Place, Canary Wharf
plateaurestaurant.co.uk

"Conran-designed restaurant with modern French menu featuring views of the Wharf's landmark tower, One Canada Square.."

Quadrato Restaurant
46 Westferry Circus, Canary Wharf,
fourseasons.com

"Next door to Battery is this offering, serving hotel guests and Wharfers. Modern Italian cuisine, heavy on the cheese with excellent presentation."

The Spread Eagle
1-2 Stockwell Street, Greenwich,
spreadeaglerestaurant.co.uk

"Cosy former pub with superb service, excellent wines and delicious food. The extensive art collection on the wall may not be to all tastes."