Food review: The Spread Eagle, Greenwich

REVIEW
Reviewing restaurants on and around the Wharf is a pretty tricky exercise.

The reason for this is because most places to eat around here conform to a certain standard of service, interior and quality of food.

And if they weren't pleasant enough, it's fair to assume most would go out of business pretty quickly.

But as critics, this presents us with a challenge. If the default setting in the Docklands is four-star, based on a sliding scale of expectation depending on the venue, then how can we differentiate one from the next?

And the answer comes in the form of The Spread Eagle in Greenwich.

I have never been out to a restaurant on Christmas Day, preferring the regular family-feud based function. But after previewing the menu at this very special establishment, I'm seriously considering it.

The food here is certainly very good. But what makes this place stand out is the effortless service.

The whole experience is the very definition of civilised. Everything possible was done to make my companion and I feel welcome and involved.

There was no dry demonstration of the depth of the wine cellar or rarity of the ingredients, but instead a well thought-out, calm and measured presentation of the dishes and drinks. The waiter's suggestions for wine were excellent and I'm pleased to say food and drinks arrived without us even noticing.

So, what of the dinner itself? At £33-per-head, the three-course Christmas Day menu is reasonably priced.

My goat's cheese and chestnut salad with figs and beetroot was a delicious and fresh combination of flavours. My companion's roasted Foie Gras with creamed sprouts was equally well cooked, if a little less exciting.

We both went for turkey to follow, which arrived, well presented, with most of the trimmings. The meat was tasty, the gravy divine and the little sausages everything they should have been.

I went for Christmas pud to finish - sweet and unusually light - while my companion attacked a cheese plate.

With the one criticism that there could have been a little more cheese (when couldn't there?), the meal as a whole was well cooked, hearty and pleasantly subtle in its marriage of tradition and fine dining.

In short, this is the perfect solution for those looking to escape from home for a calm, pleasant, convivial meal on a day when options are limited.

This restaurant thoroughly deserves the five stars I've given it for its Christmas Day offering.

However, I was disappointed to be disturbed by a high level of noise I was told was coming from a jazz club next door.

While this is unlikely to be an issue on December 25, I feel it's worth mentioning as the vibration of the bass had a significant impact on our meal.

Clearly the club, if at fault, should pay for soundproofing or the council should investigate further action. Either way this needs sorting out soon.

WHARF VERDICT

The Spread Eagle
2 Stockwell St
London, SE10
020 8853 2333
spreadeaglerestaurant.co.uk

RATINGS

Food: 5/5

Ambience: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Convenience: 3/5

Overall: 5/5

WHAT THEY SAY:

This Greenwich stalwart looks so lovely, all polished wood and luxurious fabrics, that even a simple snack feels special
squaremeal.co.uk

Service is very attentive and pleasant. The wines are well-chosen and the decor attractive with a range of good paintings of Greenwich.
london-eating.co.uk

The Spread Eagle is not the cheapest place in the world, but the food is gorgeous French influenced cuisine that's worth every penny.
viewlondon.co.uk

ALTERNATIVELY:

Cafe Rouge, 29 Mackenzie Walk
London, E14 4PH
caferouge.co.uk

"It might not be turkey and stuffing, but the French food offered on Christmas Day by this pleasant chain is certain to fill you up"

Curve, Marriott West India Quay, Hertsmere Road, London, E14 4ED
marriott.co.uk

"Expect tasty wholesome cooking from this Wharf staple in a pleasant dockside location. Why not retire for a few in the bar afterwards?"

The Narrow, 44 Narrow Street
London, E14 8DP
gordonramsay.com

"At £50 for four courses this Gordon Ramsey pub is a tempting proposition with its fantastic views across the Thames."