Food review: Carluccio's

REVIEW

Christmas is coming, like it or not, and the vexed question of where to have the office do is bound to have raised its ugly head.

With cost uppermost in most people's minds in these recessionary days getting value for money while not stinting on the quality is perhaps more important than ever.

Carluccio's, a perennial favourite in Canary Wharf, is offering it's Italian version of a festive menu at just £20 per head. With no trace of turkey in sight it could be a welcome destination for anyone with an aversion to the Christmas bird.

Of course, the problem might be getting in as Carluccio's is one of the Wharf's most popular restaurants, although it is offering sittings for pre-booked parties, and they won't rush you through your lunch.

So, what of the menu?

The antipasto massimo delivered exactly what it promised. A big platter of hams, salami, oven roasted tomatoes, olives and other Italian treats. Perfect for sharing with that chap from accounts you've never spoken to before.

Mains include chargrilled lamb steak with peperonata and 10oz steak served with rosemary potatoes (£3 supplement).

The saltimbocca di pollo was excellent. A big, succulent chicken breast, flattened and wrapped in parma ham before being fried, all expertly done.

The accompanying pesto potatoes,drenched in buttery sauce, were also very good.

Risotto di frutti di mare was slightly too oily for our tastes, although the rice was well cooked and there was a generous sprinkling of clams, mussels, prawns and other seafood throughout, all of which tasted fresh and properly cooked.

Surprisingly there is no pannetone on the dessert menu, although the alternatives are memorable.

Pasticcio di Cioccolato, more prosaically known in English as chocolate bread and butter pudding, was delicious, while panna cotta was creamy and of a perfect consistency, with its vanilla flavouring pitched just perfectly.

The wine list is good without being overlong. The Salice Salentino Riserva Candido 2005 (£18.50) is an excellent choice, subtle and smooth and a perfect companion with red meat, chicken or the risotto.

If you can't find what you want on the wine list, you can buy a bottle from Carluccio's in-store deli and they'll open it for you with a five per cent corkage charge.

Service is attentive without being overbearing and the waiting staff all displayed good knowledge of the menu and the wine list, not always something you find in a chain restaurant.

One slight criticism is the menu is a tad meat heavy, with limited options for the non-carnivore. But, as operations manager Gianni Della Ragione explained, Italian Christmas food actually tends toward the game larder.

He said: "We Italians love things like rabbit and venison and eel at Christmas but they might be a bit too much for some people in England. But meat is an important part of our Christmas tradition, so we have included things like steak and lamb on the Carluccio's menu.

"But we've changed the menu a little from last year, dropping the whole sea bass, which some people found difficult to eat and replacing it with seafood risotto, which is a very traditional for Christmas Eve in Italy.

"But I think there is something for everyone on it."

So, if you're stuck on where to choose for that Christmas blow-out this year, you could do worse than head to Carluccio's.

HEALTHY OPTIONS:
We're talking Italian here so healthy doesn't really come into the equation unless you count freshness of ingredients and attention to detail as a healthy thing - which, of course, you should.

Dishes come generously dosed with olive oil or butter so you'll have to sacrifice the waistline but why not treat yourself to some flavour instead.

Parmigiani di zucchini - layers of fried courgettes with tomato and basil sauce and melting taleggi cheese - could be an option if meat's not your thing, although it's still a hefty hit.

But so what? After all, it's Christmas, so for once forget about counting the calories and missing out. You've got all of January to do that.

WHARF VERDICT:

Carluccio's
Reuter's Plaza
Canary Wharf
E14 5AJ

Tel: 020 7719 1749

carluccios.com

RATINGS:
Food 4/5
Ambience: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Convenience: 5/5
Overall: 4/5

GETTING THERE:

Carluccio's couldn't be easier to find. Head out of One Canada Square towards the Tube station and you'll see it in Reuter's Plaza next to the clocks on poles.

WHAT THEY SAY:

The first thing you notice is that the place was packed at 12.15pm and is apparently so every day. Now I do appreciate that the choice is not unlimited in Canary Wharf, but still this can't be a bad sign.
london-eating.co.uk

The airy, light decor and animated atmosphere make it an easy choice for casual dining, but be prepared for queues and very busy lunchtimes.
squaremeal.co.uk

I have to say that the meal, service and environment were worth waiting for. I found the place bubbling yet the staff were friendly and efficient and the ossobuco I had for main course was superb.
restaurant-guide.com

ALTERNATIVELY:

Amerigo Vespucci, MacKenzie Walk
A traditional and classy Italian overlooking the dock where the staff will spoil you and the food will leave you purring.
amerigovespucci.co.uk

Zizzi's, 33 Westferry Circus
Top class pizzeria where the signature dish are the square hald-metre pizzas served on a wooden board. The pasta is good too, as are the river views towards the City.
zizzi.co.uk

Jamie's Italian, Churchill Place
Cheap and cheerful restaurant from the TV chef, where value for money is matched by the warmth of the welcom. But be prepared to queue for one of Canary Wharf's most popular dining destinations.
jamieoliver.com