Food Review: Browns, West India Quay

REVIEW
Browns is a brand that's not trying too hard. It's not uber chic or super stylish. Its menu is not mind warpingly pretentious.

Having eaten at other branches many times, I believe it knows, on the whole, what it's good at and sticks to it.

Consequently, on a trip to check out its new autumn menu last week I was expecting a pleasant if pedestrian experience.

The interior of its West India Quay branch is heavy on exposed brick and hefty beams, with the restaurant and bar snuggled into cosy nooks.

In short, it's probably the most successful conversion of the former rum warehouses open to Wharfers, providing a space that is both functional and comfortable.

Tables are well spaced in the dining area and, although I went on a busy Friday night, it never felt painfully rammed.

We started with glasses of prosecco (£4.75), which were crisp and refreshing if warmer than expected before getting down to the serious business of the food.

Browns had assured me that its new menu was stuffed with hearty comfort options for those hoping to survive the colder months.

In the end, after a lengthy mental flirtation with a goats cheese and red onion tart, I opted for pan seared black pearl scallops (£8.50) to start, while my companion chose the chicken and duck liver parfait (£5.95).

The latter, a smooth and pleasing offering, was unusually served with about the right amount of bread and proved delicious.

My scallops were almost perfect. Served on a spicy pea and chilli risotto that stayed just the right side of tangy, this dish really fired up my tastebuds ready for the main course.

I went for the slowly braised pork (£11.95) with a glass of Gavi di Gavi (£4.95), while my companion had the slowly cooked shoulder of lamb (£14.50) and a bellini (£4.95).

Both dishes, as you might expect, featured meat ready to crumble at the very suggestion of landing in the mouth.

Juicy, hearty and both served with huge dollops of creamy mash, these were indeed the sort of fare to keep the winter chills away.

The only slight niggle was the inclusion of a chunky slice of black pudding under the pork. As a texture it felt wrong and the flavour failed to blend well with the richness of the gravy.

The portions were hefty but manageable due to the lightness of the solid, uncomplicated cooking.

Significantly warmed we decided to glance at the dessert menu. Temptation proved too much and I ordered the elderflower jelly (£4.75), while my companion opted for a banoffee cheesecake (£5.75).

The jelly, refreshingly bitter, proved engagingly tasty, while the sweet slice of cheesecake was good without being exceptional.

Alongside the puddings we drank glasses of Chateau du Seuil (£5) and Moscatel Oro Catalunya (£4). The former was the ideal after dinner drop, sweet, but with a dusky bottom note.

For me, however, the Moscatel was just too saccharine.

The service throughout was attentive without being intrusive, making the whole evening flow gently from course to course with the minimum of effort.

It's never going to be a destination that offers food to the finest standards imaginable, but Browns, for its atmosphere, service and menu deserves to be near the top of the list of anyone who's heading out to buy a plate filled with comforting warmth.

HEALTHY OPTIONS

Although the concepts of healthy eating and comfort food are not happy bedfellows, Browns' menu has plenty on it to appeal to those looking to avoid the delicious cosy fats.

Roast pepper, vine tomato and butternut squash salad offers fresh tastes complete with apricot, pomegranate and pine nuts.

Chargrilled chicken salad with pears and pumpkin seeds should also satisfy all but the most tenacious inner guilt-monologues. Baked salmon, fishcakes with salad and a wide selection of flatbreads with various toppings are also available.

WHARF VERDICT
Browns
West India Quay,
Hertsmere Road, London
E14 8JJ
020 7987 9777
browns-restaurants.co.uk

RATINGS
Food: 4/5
Ambience: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Conveniece: 5/5
Overall: 4/5

GETTING THERE

Take the DLR to West India Quay and it's the restaurant on the end next to the Marriott. Alternatively walk over the floating bridge

WHAT THEY SAY:

"A bit of a shocker for Canary Wharf really - a decent, warm and friendly restaurant and bar. Great food at low prices makes this an excellent choice and superb value."
viewlondon.co.uk

"his is a good lunchtime venue in Canary Wharf, far smarter than a bar and not as pricey as some restaurants."
restaurant-guide.com

"Nice wine selection and decent food with welcoming and friendly service."
tripadvisor.co.uk

ALTERNATIVELY:

1802
West India Quay, E14 4AL
museumindocklands.org.uk

"Perfect for a drink before a trip round the museum or for a £10 meal deal main with a glass of wine, 1802 features modern British dishes."

Bar 38
Unit C, West India Quay, E14 4AX
canarywharf.bar38.co.uk

"Cocktails, beers and tasty bites from an all day breakfast to seared steak and burgers for those looking for some hearty comfort eating."

La Tasca
West India Quay, E14 4AE
latasca.co.uk

"This popular chain offers a wide selection of tapas, paella, beers and wine, bringing the vibrant flavours of Spain to the quay."