Food Review: Cinnamon, Hilton Canary Wharf

REVIEW

Hotels occupy a curious place in the eating habits of the nation.

Unless you happen to be staying there or attending a conference most people rarely venture near one, while their restaurants can specialise in flabby fried eggs for breakfast and ersatz pasta dishes for dinner.

Fortunately, Canary Wharf tends to be a cut above, with some excellent restaurants attached to our quality hotels, but often it's difficult to sit down to a quick, and cheap, lunch.

The Hilton in South Quay aims to change that by enticing Wharfers across the docks to try out its new lunchtime special menu.

The premise is very simple. A choice of 10 main courses - at £10 each, with a glass of wine included - designed to see you through the rest of the day without bursting your belt or wallet.

The current theme is Italian which makes executive head chef Alessandro Fanzola (pictured), a native of the Parma region, just the man to design the menu. He explained his thinking.

He said: "The dishes are big and substantial and will fill you up for going back to work and keep you going.

"You won't be so full you'll want to sleep - you'll still have work to do in the afternoon, at least until they introduce three hour lunches like we have in Italy."

Certainly the menu delivers on its promise with all the main courses served up being generous portions.

Pollo alla cacciatora was a very well cooked chicken breast, braised in tomato sauce to keep it moist, served on a creamy polenta cake. For anyone new to the cornmeal staple, this is a very good introduction.

Other mains included Italian staples lasagne bolognese, risotto and bistecca alla Milanese.

Vegetarians have three options, including a well-made gnocchi al pesto rosso. The pizza alla Parmigiana suffered perhaps from a cheese overload - too much at lunchtime - but was rescued by the other toppings of deep fried aubergine and wild rocket.

Side dishes are extra, all priced at £2.50, and the attentive staff will be happy to recommend what would best complement your main course, whether it the roasted cubed potatoes (recommended) or a green beans with butter, shallots and parsley.

Desserts (£3.50) included a delicious tiramisu, all moist coffee-soaked sponge and light mascarpone cheese, while the pesche ripiene - stuffed peach halves soaked in amaretto - were excellent.

They were preserved by chef Fanzola during the summer and stocks are limited.

The Cinnamon is attractively laid out, all clean lines and subdued lighting. It's better to sit facing into the restuarant to appreciate the smooth modern decor and laid back atmosphere, rather than gaze out across the scaffolding around the soon-to-disappear DLR station.

By keeping the menu choice short and simple chef Fanzola has come up with a recipe for success, producing good food from quality ingredients at value for money. It's not fine dining, but then you won't get that anywhere for under £20, but its well worth the trip.

The Italian lunch menu runs until mid-November.

Healthy options
Fritto misto con zucchini might be the best choice if all that meat, pasta and pizza is not really your thing. Deep fried calamari, whitebait and red bream come coated in a light batter, freshly cooked and crispy. The fishy morsels delight the palate, while the accompanying courgette crisps - matchstick chips really - were superb.

The wild rocket salad recommended to go with it, full of juicy cherry tomatoes and topped with parmesan shavings, was a welcome taste of rustic Italy.

All it lacked was the shade of an olive tree as you relaxed under the Tuscan sun.

And of course, the biggest health boost is restricting yourself to one glass of wine, either a cabernet or a chardonnay, to keep the calorie count down.

WHARF VERDICT
Cinnamon Restaurant
Hilton London Canary Wharf
South Quay
Marsh Wall
E14 9SH
020 3002 2303
hilton.co.uk

RATINGS
Food: 4/5
Ambience: 4/5
Service: 5/5
Convenience: 3/5
Overall: 4/5

GETTING THERE:

Take the DLR to South Quay and the hotel is in front of you as you leave the station.

WHAT THEY SAY:

"The decor of the restaurant is spare and modern, the staff were quietly welcoming."
visitdocklands.co.uk

"The staff we encountered from the concierge desk to the restaurant were not only helpful, friendly and warm towards us but also to each other."
wego.com

"Don't forget to ask if you want a cappuccino or any other special coffee, the staff rush off and get them for you."
trivago.co.uk

ALTERNATIVELY:

Azura Restaurant
Radisson Edwardian New Providence Wharf, 5 Fairmont Avenue, E14 9PQ
radissonedwardian.com

Stunning river views help diners digest the seasonal and simple quintessential British food, showcasing the nation's produce at its best.

Quadrato Restaurant
Four Seasons Hotel, 46 Westferry Circus. Canary Wharf, E14 8RS
fourseasons.com

Dine in style from an Italian influenced menu in a restaurant overlooking manicured gardens next to the river.

Curve Restaurant
Marriott West India Quay, 22 Hertsmere Road, E14 4ED
marriott.co.uk

Sensational seafood and fine fish dining a stone's throw from Canary Wharf.