Food Review: Lower East Liquor Bar and Bistro

REVIEW
Canary Wharf is often likened to Manhattan with its towers so it's high time a New York-themed restaurant opened in the area.

We've got Italian, Indian, fine dining and French but nothing from the Big Apple, so the Lower East Liquor Bar and Bistro fills that gap, offering a taste of New York with a French twist.

With a menu packed full of tempting fare, all well within the budget of the average Wharfer, it has already proved popular with the native population. Manager Michelle Moreno has been delighted with the response since the restaurant opened last month.

"Business has grown much quicker than I thought it would," she said. "There's a big local resident community here, which we didn't know about, and they have adopted us as their bar. We've got regulars now, which is fantastic.

"We're keen to get feedback from people because the most important thing for us is for customers to tell us what they like so we can deliver that."

So, does Lower East deliver on its promises?

The cocktails (all £7) are good, and so they should be at £7 a pop. The Classic Manhattan hits a perfect sour note, while the Raspberry Mule, the vodka one is recommended, was fruity and refreshing without being overpowering.

Foodwise there are all the usual bistro suspects such as steak, but when you look more closely at the menu some unusual and interesting items emerge.

For starters the pea and mint soup (£3) is a genuine delight. Fresh and full of flavour it's a taste of summer you'll want to savour as autumn approaches.

The charcuterie board (£9) is a meat treat. Well-sourced speck, salami and chorizo, the latter packing a chilli punch, will certainly keep avid carnivores occupied.

Macaroni Cheese (£9) might evoke memories of nursery food but this is a dish that's clearly had plenty of love lavished on it. The reduced bechamel sauce has a good cheese flavour, while the pasta is light and well cooked. But it is very filling so those with a small appetite be warned.

Eschewing steak and pasta, opt for the Lobster BLT (£15). A sesame seed bap filled with salad and tomato, chopped lobster meat mixed with mayonnaise and topped with maple cured bacon won't be to everyone's taste - the lobster does have a strong flavour - but it's a pleasant alternative if you fancy a change. And the fries (£3) served with it are fabulous.

The portions are generous so finding room for dessert (all £6) may not always be possible, but they are worth checking out, particularly the pot au chocolat - a chocoholic's fantasy - and the ice cream sundae, which was polished off as if the fresh fruit and ice cream combo had just been invented.

Good food is easy to find in Canary Wharf, but a warm welcome isn't always so evident. Lower East gets extra marks for the attentiveness of its staff and the fact they seem to genuinely want you to enjoy your dining experience.

The modern, stripped back decor may not be to everyone's taste but there's always the glorious river views to feast your eyes on.

There's a lot to like about the Lower East Liquor Bar, so check it out.

WHARF VERDICT

Lower East Liquor Bar and Bistro
Unit 1
28 Westferry Circus
Canary Wharf
London E14 8RR

Tel: 020 7 536 2826
www.lowereast.co.uk

Ratings:

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Ambience: 4/5

Convenience: 3/5

Overall: 4/5

What they say:

"The food is delicious and the setting on the river is perfect. Highly recommended."
london-eating.com

"The can-do, smiling service might be evocative of Manhattan, but the brief menu is a very loose interpretation."
timeout.com

"Lower East is in a nice riverside location and perfect if you're looking for somewhere casual and modern, but an above average menu."
toptable.com

Getting there....
From One Canada Square head west along West India Avenue, across Westferry Circus roundabout and down the steps towards the Thames Clippers quay. Lower East is to the left as you face the river.

Alternatively....

Other bar/restaurants combinations:

Astons Champagne & Wine Bar
187 MarshWall
E14 9SH
astons-bar.com

Union Square
The O2
SE10 0DX
union-square.co.uk

Browns Bar & Brasserie
West India Quay
E14 8JJ
browns-restaurants.co.uk