Food review: Locale, Blackheath

REVIEW
You'll have to wait until clocking-out time to head over to Locale Blackheath.

For one thing, it's in Blackheath, which is a hefty hop and a skip from the estate. It's also not open until 5pm, which rules out the sneaky lunchtime tipple.

Perhaps most importantly of all, it's also the sort of place that will gobble up your evening, until you emerge hours later with a belly-full of food and cocktails and a dumb grin on your face.

Locale Blackheath is just one of five outlets laid on for London residents. There's one in Balham, Fulham and East Dulwich, and another near the London Eye.

The brand prides itself on offering the "quintessential Italian neighbourhood restaurant", with open kitchens and freshly-made dishes largely created with Italian ingredients.

The restaurant itself is a wash of glowing reds, crimped golden frames and chandeliers, giving it the atmosphere of a more traditional dining venue.

Staff are friendly and attentive, and the noise levels are discreet without being eerie. The high ceilings make it feel more spacious, but the single tables may not always be a match for a hearty spread of dishes.

Of course, you may not make it as far as the tables. Locale's cocktail selection is a highlight of the restaurant. In fact, they're probably the pick of Blackheath and Greenwich.

Award-winning mixologist Andy Pearson has developed Italian-themed flavours such as the tangy basil and cracked black pepper margarita, the Locale bloody mary, mixed with kitchen-made napolitana, and the sour Italian.

Top of the tree are the amazing Tiramasu cocktail and the Locale Martini, which boasted a surging tang of blackberries and raspberries.

Bartenders such as recent award-winner William Neme have a passion for their creations, and are often quietly working on new ones. Best of all, they're all half price during happy hour, which runs from 5-8pm from Monday to Fridays, and 5-7pm on Saturdays and Sundays.

Dining in decent restaurants is all about pacing. It's no good pencilling in a spectacular dessert if you're just going to fill your stomach with bread like a Focaccia airbag. But it's a tricky task, because it's mouth-watering stuff.

The same can be said for the perfectly-cooked scallops in pancetta, chickpea puree and garlic chilli dressing to start, or the charcuterie board of meats such as Tuscan ham, wild boar and salami.

Locale has just launched an autumn menu which includes linguine with octopus, 12-ounce 21-day-aged Scottish ribeye and roasted quails wrapped in pancetta.

If there was one criticism, it would be that, while the pancetta was beautifully cooked, the particular cut of calves liver was a little gristly. But the rare breed suckling pig with apple and marsala was a good dish, which would be most in its element on days where a warming meal was called for.

Dessert brought a creamy selection of Italian cheeses and fruit bread, but it hadn't got a hope of competing with the rich and luscious fondante al cioccolato. I don't care how nice the cheese is - it's like trying to get attention at your piano recital when Mozart is playing in the background.

Locale is a useful addition to your list of Italian eating options, but it should definitely be etched in as your cocktail destination of choice.

WHARF VERDICT

Locale Blackheath
1 Lawn Terrace
Blackheath Village
London, SE3 9LJ
020 8852 0700
localerestaurants.com

RATINGS

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Ambience: 3/5

Convenience: 2/5

WHAT THEY SAY:

"I absolutely love the whole layout of this place and the atmosphere. It has a great buzz to it."
london-eating.co.uk

"The open bustling kitchen at Locale gives an insight into the care and attention paid to each dish by the Italian chefs, and all the dishes are made to authentic Italian recipes to ensure guests get a true taste of Italy."
bestlondonrestaurants.co.uk

"It's beautiful food at affordable prices - unusual for the lovely location."
toptable.com

ALTERNATIVELY:

Manhattan Bar
Marriott Hotel, West India Quay, E14 4ED
londonmarriottwestindiaquay.co.uk

"A stylish bar with terrace, featuring caipirinhas, espresso martinis and a mean bloody mary."

Plateau
Canada Place, Canary Wharf, E14 5ER
plateaurestaurant.co.uk

"A fashionable central Wharf location serving new creations and classics such as the Ginger Martini."

The Attic
Pan Peninsula, Millharbour, E14 9HN
incgroup.co.uk

"Fruit, champagne and spirits blended together in a '50s-style lounge with dizzying views of the Wharf."