Food Review: Amerigo Vespucci

REVIEW
The phrase hidden gem is bandied about sometimes too generously but it is the only one which can perfectly sum up Italian fine dining venue Amerigo Vespucci.

If you're not visiting on recommendation, then the only time you are likely to see it is if you wobble, bleary-eyed from the back door of The Henry Addington.

Then the flash decor and immaculately turned out staff are enough to make you decide to head for the nearest curry house while making a note to return on a more sober occasion. Unfortunately you are likely to forget until your next boozy afternoon session around Cabot Square.

Italian cuisine may be the talk of the Canary Wharf restaurant scene thanks to Jamie Oliver's new offering at Churchill Place and its clever marketing campaign, but often the best things carry on without fuss. That is the case at Vespucci's.

While Oliver offers the quirky Italian dish with an Essex-boy twist to wow the Barclays workforce, this is a different, traditional and classy alternative that feels a world away.
On the downside, the views were tempered by the murkiness outside but you can't lose points for the weather.

Especially when inside the staff seem to suffer from a sunny disposition - both relaxed and attentive, even with the restaurant fairly busy on a Friday lunchtime.

Special mention goes to the waiter who performed a daring feat of feng-shui by effortlessly rearranging the table mid-meal - without disturbing - and leaving it perfect, resulting in a feeling akin, I imagine, to waking up to find your house tidy.

And the food didn't disappoint either. For starters the seafood melody, a perfect tower of ripe avocado, fresh smoked trout and crab, topped off with Atlantic prawns, was as delicious as it was aesthetically pleasing.

Served with rocket and drizzled with olive oil, my only complaint was that the seafood dressing ran a little short.

Meanwhile the fantastically-titled insalata tre colori, a mix of beef tomatoes, grilled smoked goats' cheese and fresh mozzarella, was fresh and tasty.

The dishes were priced £9.95 and £7.25 respectively, placing it competitively within the fine dining market.

For mains the vittello piccante (£15.50), a tender veal chop in a marsla wine sauce, and the linguistic nightmare of panerotti di spinaci ai formaggi fuso (12.90) - fresh spinach pasta parcels filled with ricotta served under a four cheese starter - were both well-above average.

The veal was perfect for a hearty lunchtime feed - special mention also goes to the delicious sautéed potatoes - while the pasta, despite a less-than-enticing aroma that could make a first date also a last, tasted very good.

The best was saved for last in the shape of dessert.

Our persuasive waiter used Mediterranean charm to sway me on to the lemon and lime cheesecake, and despite not being a fan of the combination, it was without doubt the best sweet I have had in beneath the Wharf's towers - a superb combination that went perfectly with cream, ice cream and strawberries. It left you feeling sorry for the tiramasu, which was Tyson Gay to the Usain Bolt of a cheesecake.

Overall, a great place to get spoiled by friendly and attentive staff with fresh, fantastically put together food.

WHARF VERDICT

Amerigo Vespucci
25 Cabot Square
Mackenzie Walk
London
E14 4QA
amerigovespucci.co.uk

Food
5/5

Service
5/5

Ambience
4/5

Convenience
4/5

Overall
5/5

What they say...

his place is still my favourite restaurant in Canary Wharf. The summer specials are to die for.
london-eating.co.uk

Prices are comparable with other London restaurants but the food was much better.
reviewcentre.com

Amerigo Vespucci offers fresh and imaginative cuisine that captures the true flavours of Italy.
timeout.com

Getting There...

Leave Canary Wharf Tube station and follow the dock side path outside All Bar One. Continue on the path under the DLR the past The Henry Addington and it's the next venue along.

Alternatively...

Hidden gems

Rustic Italian food in a relaxed atmosphere by the Excel centre.
Zero Sette, 2 Western Gateway,
London, E16 1DR, zerosette.co.uk

Smart Lebanese restaurant tucked away next to Millwall dock.
Byblos Harbour, 41 Millharbour,
Docklands, London, E14 9NB, byblos-harbour.com

18th century pub with fine dining. Perfect for all seasons.
he Gun, 27 Coldharbour, Docklands, London, E14 9NS, thegundocklands.com