Food Review: Memsaheb On Thames

REVIEW

I'd heard a lot of whispers about Memsaheb on Thames before making the trip down to Crossharbour for its seafood festival last week.

"Haven't you heard - it's Delia's favourite Indian restaurant," somebody breathed in reverent tones.

So understandably I was keen to see whether the hype was justified.

We arrived having been drenched by a mini-monsoon during the 10-minute hike from the DLR. The restaurant is somewhat tucked away, looking out over the river, but was nevertheless easy to find.

On first impressions, I doubt many Wharfers will tear themselves away from the safety of their steel and glass castles for the decor.

The design, while simple and utilitarian, featuring wood flooring and black leather upholstery, is pleasant if unremarkable.

It was also disappointing to be given a window seat with the river view blocked by the al fresco barbecue tent - although I suppose the food has to be cooked somewhere.

So, sitting and waiting for the food to arrive, I was starting to wonder what all the fuss was about.

And then the plates started coming and everything clicked into place.

Memsaheb's seafood festival runs on into next month and I strongly suggest you head down and try it out for yourself.

Managing partner Moni Das visits Billingsgate every morning to choose what he's going to cook for his customers.

And the result is a frequently changing menu based on freshness with the catch of the day on display.

To start I had the prawns in chilli and lime (£7.95), which were spicy, but managed to stay the right side of overpowering.

My companion chose the grilled salmon in garlic and butter sauce (£5.50) - a delicate combination of creaminess and flavour with the fish almost perfectly cooked.

After such promising starters, washed down with a few uncomplicated glasses of Dashwood Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (£22.95), I was anticipating something special to follow. And I wasn't disappointed.

Three massive king prawns arrived, carefully balanced with a smattering of char-grilled vegetables and coconut and chilli sauce (£14.95).

The combination of their juicy flesh and the earthy, chunky dressing was unusual and deliciously tangy.

My companion's sea bream with spicy potatoes (£14.95) also proved a satisfying mix of flavours, complemented by the vegetable rice and an excellent plain naan.

Neither dish was exactly on the menu, which appeared to be more a guide to the foods available than an exhaustive list.

Das spent a sizeable amount of time flitting around the tables offering exotic combinations to eager diners, before rushing back to the kitchen to supervise their creation.

Nougat (£3.95) and a latte (£1.95) were serviceable rather than remarkable, but rounded the meal off by providing a short period for digestion, necessary before the stagger back to the station.

Throughout our meal the service was quick and attentive.

While Memsaheb frequently seems chaotic, with waiters here, there and everywhere, it nevertheless runs smoothly and efficiently.

In short, if you're keen to sample the best Billingsgate has to offer with an inventive twist in pleasant surroundings, follow in Delia's footsteps.

WHARF VERDICT

Memsaheb
65-67 Amsterdam Road
Docklands
London E14 3UU
020 7538 3008
memsaheb.net

Food
5/5

Service
4/5

Ambience
3/5

Convenience
3/5

Overall
4/5

WHAT THEY SAY...

This upmarket Indian is rightfully popular with discerning Docklanders who have found an absolute gem of a place.
toptable.com

This is a first class restaurant, the staff are friendly beyond belief and the cooking is sublime.
restaurantspy.com

Start by sharing a tandoori khazana, which is a platter of mixed kebabs from the tandoor, including good chicken tikka.
Charles Campion
London Restaurant Guide

GETTING THERE

Take the DLR down the Isle of Dogs to Crossharbour. Walk down Glengall Grove with The George pub on your left. Take the second left, Marshfield Street, then right into Manchester Road and follow signs

ALTERNATIVELY...

Award-winning Indian cuisine down at the bottom of the island
The Gaylord, 141 Manchester Road, Isle of Dogs, London E14 3DN
gaylordrestaurant.co.uk

Hop on the DLR and get a taste of the genuine article on the Wharf's doorstep in Westferry
Bengal Classic, 11 Pennyfields,
Westferry, London, E14 8HP
bengalclassic.co.uk

Contemporary Indian in a listed building just a few minutes walk from the Wharf
Dockmasters House, 1 Hertsmere Road,
West India Quay, London E14 8JJ
dockmastershouse.com