Review: Dockmaster's House

Dockmaster’s House has had a rich and varied history - but now it seems to have found a worthy identity.

Last known as a curry house, the destination has previously been – as the name would suggest – the dockmaster’s residence, and in its murkier past, an opium den.

Now the owners of this historic building behind West India Quay have put its fantastic architecture to good use by turning it into a fine dining Indian fusion eaterie via a lengthy refurbishment.

The destination is like nothing else on the Wharf, with a choice between the intimate beauti-fully decorated room at the front, or the airy and stunning glass-walled room at the back.

That being the first high point, two more can be found in the highly trained and knowledgeable staff, and in the mouthwatering dishes put together by chef Navin Bhatia.

It is far removed from its previous incarnation as a place to get a hot curry after a night of beers.

Dockmasters is now ideal for lunchtime business entertaining or a classy evening meal.

For fine-dining it’s not fiendishly expensive, with a fixed menu served at lunchtime and in the early evening costing £20.95 for three courses.

The rest of the menu is varied, but small enough for the kitchen team to focus on quality.

For starters the selection runs between a deliciously meaty kebab platter (£11.50), which includes saffron prawns, tandoori green chicken, lamb burrah and lamb chops, to a less-meaty but equally tasty potato and peas tikka (£6.50).

My suggested alternative is the charcoal grilled saffron prawns (£9.50) cooked in the tandoori oven for six or seven minutes at between 600-700 degrees, resulting in a succulent seafood spectacular and served with a perfect accompaniment of clove smoked haddock kedgeree.

For mains, served with masala mash potatoes and crispy okra, the lamb shank nahari (£18.50), which is cooked with a blend of spices over six and eight hours comes off the bone with ease.

A simpler alternative, the coconut chilli beef at £18.50 is a beautifully concocted dish, while a vegetarian option of paneer millefuille (£14.50) is a real treat.

The recommended Corsican red wine, Domaine D’Alzipratu, was light and lively – perfect for a lunchtime drink.

Desserts are priced £6.50. Choices include delightful caramelised carrot pudding or a warm chocolate fondant.

All accompanying ice cream is made in-house – and is an experience not to be missed.

Dockmaster’s House also offers a huge range of refreshing teas, a perfect pick-me-up before you exit the splendid building and face the bitter weather.

Dockmaster’s House,
1 Hertsmere Road,
E14 8JJ
020 7345 0345