Review: Marriott West India Quay

This is hardly the most radical thinking around. After all, some of the London’s largest wallets yawn open on this estate, and much of its freshest catch is on ice at the nearby Billingsgate Market.

It takes a steady hand and a fair bit of skill to get the balance right. But the Marriott West India Quay doesn’t have all those stars for nothing.

Located on the ground floor of the five-star hotel looking out on West India Dock, the Curve restaurant and bar is a relaxing haven of fine food, classic cocktails and sterling service.

Curve’s slick operation is marshalled by Chef Jolly, an award-winning culinary creator who previously spent time at the Marriott in Goa. While it’s often assumed that a high-class course should be presented in a foreign language with a side of obscure adjectives, his menus are full of simple dishes cooked up with flair and flavour.

A case in point is Curve’s Simply Fish Your Way option. Diners pick out their choice of fish of the day, choose how they’d like it cooked, and introduce it to one of four homemade sauces, including chilli, garlic and coriander butter, garlic and chardonnay wine, or jalapeno peppers and fire-roasted tomato salsa.

The Alaskan Black Cod (£22.50) is also expertly handled, and comes with bok choy, miso sauce and steamed Jasmine rice. Other temptations include the excellent Surf and Turf (£25), made from 24-dry aged beef, the Masaman Spiced Roasted Monkfish (£17.50), and the Steamed Mussels, Clams and Squid (£18.50).

Stand-out starters include the Baby Calamari (£8), Pan-seared King Scallops (£12) and Blue Swimming Lump Crab Cakes (£12.50), while dessert brings Tiramisu Cheesecake (£6.50) and “Valrhona� Chocolate Mousse (£7).

The restaurant’s wine list is groaning with red, white, rose and champagne options, and a selection of the best cocktails on the Wharf are available from the Manhattan bar next door.

Disneyland may lay claim to the title of Happiest Place On Earth, but until I can kick back with a Bloody Mary and a superb meal without being thrown out by security, I’m staying put.

Curve Restaurant and Bar
Marriott West India Quay
22 Hertsmere Road
0207 5172808