Review: The Fine Line

By Jon Massey on November 3, 2008 1:00 PM |

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When on the Wharf, why not eat at the water’s edge? Or at least as close as needs be from the comfort of a well upholstered chair in warm surroundings on a grey day.

If the rain’s battering your office window, why not wander down to Fisherman’s Walk?

There a warm and relaxed reception awaits you at The Fine Line.

This Fullers-owned eaterie and bar offers impressive views across West India Dock, nicely offset by a steely grey sky when I along with my dining companion took time to sample its latest menu.

The inviting interior took the edge off the elements as we were quickly ushered to a table by the window so we could gaze out on all the chilly passers-by.

I started with a smoked duck, radish and watercress salad (£6.75).

Simply delicious, the succulent slivers of flesh blending well with the peppery flavours of the leaves.

My companion went with the goat’s cheese on toast which proved a hearty portion for £5.50.

Moving on, with the help of a few glasses of Mâcon Lugny Chardonnay (£19), I chose the West Sussex pork (£11.50).

The plate presented was piled high with moist morsels and crispy crackling and delivered a range of powerful tastes which complemented each other well.

My companion’s rosti potato cake with leeks (£9) was also wholesome fare.

For me, however, the clear highlight was the pork, which had been soaked in Fullers ale before cooking.

Despite the generous portions, the meal stopped short of being heavy thanks to the clever combinations of ingredients.

I also feel the service, which was excellent deserves a special mention. Our waitress was attentive and efficient, without ever encroaching on the meal.

Hopefully, as the menu is regularly refreshed with new dishes to tempt hungry Wharfers, I will be back in the restaurant soon, drinking cool wine, eating delightful food and staring out across the water to West India Quay.

To be honest, I hope you beat me to it.

The Fine Line,
29-30 Fisherman’s Walk,
Canary Wharf
020 7513 0255

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