Review: Quadrato, Four Seasons Hotel

But allow us to let you into a little secret: The outside dining space at Quadrato, Four Seasons hotel at Westferry, is such a place. Its terrace is set against manicured lawns and multicoloured flower beds, the Thames a backdrop for this glorious setting. The only sound, birdsong and an occasional tinkling as waiters refill glasses with iced water. It really is an oasis of calm in the glass and steel heart of global business.

Chef Marco Bax’s new summer menu, inspired by seasonal products along with fresh food culture and flavour combinations, is as refreshing as the venue.

As we were taking in the charms of the terrace, my dining companion and I thought it only fitting to opt for the Al Fresco menu, £25 for two courses, £28 for three.

For starters, I went for the Green Asparagus And Prawn Salad With Spicy Watermelon Dressing which was a triumph. Not only did this dish look the epitome of summer, it tasted like it too.

The tiger prawns and asparagus were charcoal-grilled to perfection, their colours bursting with freshness, the dressing an inspired accompaniment to the individual flavours. My companion plumped for the Grilled Chicken And Endive Salad With Raspberry Dressing. This was a work of art; the chicken, succulent and flavourful, atop a mountain of salad dressed in a coat of tangy, raspberry splendour. Here was an unusual combination of tastes and textures but one that worked.

It was on to our mains. My companion, who is quite the connoisseur of risotto – in as much as he always orders it if it’s on the menu – went for the Lemon And Thyme Risotto Mantecato With Seabass. It didn’t disappoint. The risotto, a signature dish of Chef Marco, was light and fluffy, the portion the right amount, any bigger and the rich buttery taste might have swamped the mild-flavoured flaky seabass. My option, the Seared Breast Of Duck With Saffron Potatoes, Mouli Puree And Prune Sauce, was a taste sensation, the mouli offsetting the tender, full-flavoured duck, the syrupy-sweet prune sauce a perfect dip for the fluffy-yet-crisp potatoes.

Normally my companion and I don’t do dessert at lunchtime, choosing instead to grab a millefeuille from Paul for a spot of afternoon tea back at the office, but we really had no choice. With such impressive summer creations on offer, it would have been foolish – and rather rude – not to.

My Orange Parfait With Chai Tea Granite And Raspberry Coulis was sublime. The mousse-like parfait teased the tastebuds, evaporating after a few moments, a flavour of ripe juicy sunshine left behind to tango with the spicy, cool granite. It is said that three’s a crowd and I felt that with the coulis. Flavour wise, it didn’t bring anything to the party but visually, like a Veronique Branquinho catwalk show, it did look chic and rather dramatic.

By contrast, if my companion’s choice of Coffee Crème Brulee With Caramel Ice-cream was a designer it would have been Kelly Hoppen, all beige, taupe and cream. And like the interior designer, it was perfectly balanced, the creamy ice-cream giving a nice edge to the rich-set custard.

With the waiting staff attentive without being cloying, al fresco dining at Quadrato is really something to be experienced.

The trouble is now that we’ve told you about this hidden gem, we may have to kill you.

Quadrato
Four Seasons Hotel
Westferry Circus
0207 510 1999